Lawn & Plant Care

Lawns in the UK benefit from two to four feeds per year, timed to the grass's natural growth cycle. The first and most important feed is in spring, applied between late March and April once the soil has warmed above 5°C and the grass has started actively growing — a granular lawn feed or combined feed, weed and moss treatment is appropriate at this point. A second feed in late May to July maintains colour and density through the heaviest growing period; use a summer-formulated or liquid feed in dry weather to avoid scorching. An autumn feed applied between September and mid-October prepares the lawn for winter by strengthening roots — autumn feeds are lower in nitrogen and higher in potassium than spring formulas. Avoid feeding in frost, drought, or when the ground is waterlogged. For most domestic lawns, a spring and autumn feed is sufficient; for high-traffic or heavily worn lawns, a summer feed adds useful resilience.

Removing moss from a lawn requires two steps: killing the moss first, then raking it out and addressing the underlying cause. Apply a moss killer containing iron sulphate or ferrous sulphate — the moss will turn black within a few days, indicating it is dead. Do not rake before this stage, as raking living moss spreads spores and can worsen the problem. Once the moss has blackened, rake it out thoroughly using a spring-tine rake or, for larger lawns, a mechanical scarifier. After removal, the underlying cause needs addressing or the moss will return: the most common causes are compacted soil, poor drainage, shade, and low soil fertility. Aerating the lawn each autumn improves drainage and reduces compaction. Overseeding bare patches after scarifying helps grass fill in and compete against future moss. A regular lawn feeding programme — spring and autumn — keeps grass dense enough to crowd out moss naturally. Lawns that receive less than four hours of direct sun daily are most prone to moss and may need annual treatment.

The optimum time to sow grass seed in the UK is late summer to early autumn, typically late August through to October. At this point the soil retains warmth from summer (ideally above 10°C), which promotes rapid germination, while cooler air temperatures and increased autumn rainfall reduce the risk of the seedlings drying out. Seed sown in September has several months to establish root growth before winter dormancy, meaning it arrives in spring as a properly established lawn. Spring sowing (March to May) is the alternative, but it requires consistent watering, faces more competition from weeds, and can be disrupted by late frosts or summer drought before the new grass has established. Whichever season you choose, soil preparation is essential: rake the area to a fine tilth, remove weeds, apply a pre-seed fertiliser, sow at the recommended rate (typically 25–35g per square metre), lightly rake in, and keep the soil moist until germination. Most grass seed germinates within 7–21 days given adequate soil warmth and moisture.

Repairing bare or patchy lawn areas is best done in early autumn (September) or mid-spring (April to May). First, loosen the compacted soil in the bare patch using a fork or rake — this allows seeds to make contact with the soil rather than sitting on a hard surface. Remove any weeds, dead thatch, or debris. Apply a pre-seed fertiliser, which is high in phosphorus to promote root development in newly germinating seed. Sow grass seed at approximately 35g per square metre for patches, spreading it evenly and raking lightly so the seed is in contact with the soil but not buried deeply. Water gently and regularly, ideally twice daily if there is no rainfall, until the grass has germinated and reached around 5cm in height. Keep foot traffic off the repaired area for at least four to six weeks. For larger areas of damage or a thinning overall lawn, overseeding the whole surface using the same method gives more even results than patching individual spots.

Liquid and granular plant feeds deliver the same essential nutrients — nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium — but differ significantly in speed, duration, and best use case. Liquid feeds are dissolved in water and applied directly to the soil or foliage. They are fast-acting, with nutrients available to plant roots within hours; this makes them ideal for container plants, houseplants, and responding quickly to visible deficiencies such as yellowing leaves. Liquid feeds need to be applied more frequently — typically every one to two weeks during the growing season. Granular feeds are slow-release pellets or granules that break down over time with moisture; they feed plants steadily over weeks or months and are more suited to borders, lawns, and ground-planted specimens where a long-term, low-maintenance approach is preferred. Granular feeds are generally better value per application and carry a lower risk of overfeeding. For most outdoor plants, granular feed in spring combined with liquid top-ups during active growth gives the best results. For containers and indoor plants, liquid feed applied consistently through the growing season is usually more effective.

NPK stands for nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) — the three primary nutrients all plants need to grow. The numbers on a fertiliser label show the percentage of each element by weight in that order, so a feed labelled 7-7-7 contains equal amounts of all three, while one labelled 20-10-10 is higher in nitrogen. Nitrogen (N) promotes leafy, green growth and is the dominant nutrient in spring lawn feeds and leafy vegetable fertilisers. Phosphorus (P) supports root development and is important for establishing new plants, seedlings, and bulbs — pre-seed fertilisers are higher in phosphorus for this reason. Potassium (K) promotes flowering, fruiting, and general plant hardiness; tomato feeds are characteristically high in potassium. When choosing a plant food, match the NPK profile to the plant's current need: high nitrogen for lush foliage or a green lawn, high potassium for flowering and fruiting plants, and balanced NPK for general maintenance.

Watering frequency depends on the plant type, its location, and the weather, but some general principles apply. Newly planted or transplanted plants need consistent watering for the first four to six weeks to help roots establish — aim for a thorough soak two to three times a week rather than daily light watering, which encourages shallow rooting. Established plants in the ground rarely need supplementary watering except during prolonged dry periods. Container and hanging basket plants dry out much faster than ground-planted specimens and typically need checking daily in warm weather, watering when the top 2–3cm of compost feels dry. The best time of day to water is early morning, before temperatures rise, which minimises evaporation and reduces the risk of fungal disease. Avoid consistently soaking foliage in the evening. A finger or stick pushed 5cm into the soil is the most reliable indicator of whether watering is needed — if it comes out dry, water thoroughly rather than applying a small amount.

Yellow leaves are among the most common plant problems and can have several different causes. Overwatering is the most frequent culprit — if the soil feels consistently wet and the yellowing affects younger leaves or the whole plant, check drainage and reduce watering frequency. Underwatering causes yellowing that typically starts at leaf edges and tips, often accompanied by dry, crispy patches; water thoroughly and consistently. Nutrient deficiency — particularly lack of nitrogen — causes a general yellowing of older leaves while new growth stays green; apply a balanced or nitrogen-rich liquid feed during the growing season. Iron or magnesium deficiency causes yellowing between the leaf veins while the veins themselves stay green, most commonly in acid-loving plants in alkaline soil; a sequestered iron treatment or ericaceous feed addresses this. Insufficient light causes pale, yellowish growth throughout the plant — move to a brighter position. Natural leaf ageing also causes yellowing in older, lower leaves; if only a few lower leaves are affected and the rest of the plant is healthy, this is a normal process and not a cause for concern.

Yes — houseplants have different nutritional requirements and feeding rhythms to outdoor plants. Houseplants grow in a fixed volume of compost with no access to ground nutrients, so their feed requirements are higher relative to their size, but they are also more sensitive to overfeeding. A dedicated houseplant liquid feed — typically balanced in NPK at a lower concentration than outdoor feeds — applied once every two to four weeks during the growing season (spring to early autumn) is the standard approach. Do not feed houseplants during winter, when light levels are low and growth slows or stops — feeding a dormant plant causes nutrient build-up which can damage roots. Outdoor fertilisers, particularly granular lawn feeds or high-nitrogen outdoor formulas, are too concentrated for indoor use and can scorch roots or force weak, leggy growth. Slow-release fertiliser sticks or pellets are a practical alternative for houseplants, releasing nutrients gradually over several weeks with normal watering.